To successfully persuade Milla Jovovich to dye her hair a shiny copper shade that would define her career for the Luc Besson sci-fi classic in 1997 The fifth Element, hairdresser Stegerhoek district appeals to his ambition. “I said, ‘Do you want to be a model or an actress?’ Recalls the Dutch-born pro visionary, who is perhaps best known for helping to fashion the expertly tousled hair of the ’90s through his longtime collaboration with the film’s costume designer, Jean Paul Gaultier. Jovovich’s bleached roots and neon shades reached Besson’s vision of someone who “looked like he was 20,000 years in the past and 20,000 years into the future”, successfully cementing the color “radioactive, almost foreign” in the pantheon of cinematographic moments transformed into mood. the administration’s advice.
According to the colorist and co-founder of Bleach London Alex Brownsell, the specific tone of Jovovich is at the origin of the Mandarin dream, a vibrant auburn semi-permanent dye that recently eclipsed its popular Rosé, a cotton candy pink, as a top-selling product. “Red and copper are traditionally colors for excitement,” suggests Brownsell as to why the offbeat color seems to have a moment: filled with handy tips and DIY coloring tips, the hashtag #copperhair on TikTok has nearly 25 million views and count. “Everyone always wants to make a statement after something big happens,” adds Victoria Hunter, colorist and co-owner of New York’s Whittemore House Salon, who took the model Ariel nicholson in a rich cinnamon undertone for this month’s cover photo shoot. “Hair is a natural thing that people go to on an emotional level.”
The emotions are apparently at the rendezvous. During lockdown, FKA twigs debuted ultra-saturated copper curls, while Bella Hadid kicked off the New Year with a set of chunky Ginger Spice-inspired framing highlights; her sister, Gigi, quickly followed suit with long fiery auburn locks for her post-baby debut at the Versace Fall Fashion Show. “At present, [it’s about] those Kool-Aid-soaked tones and a DIY henna look, ”says New York colourist Jenna Perry, who in addition to helping Bella become an instant beauty icon, also gave actresses Maude Apatow and Grace Van Patten the copper-top treatment. “My specialty is balayage, but I notice a lot of people don’t want to take themselves seriously right now,” continues Perry, a natural redhead.
It’s not just the nostalgia for the 90s that is behind the return of color. There is a collective desire for a new slate – and going red is a change for almost all of us: only about 1 to 2% of the population has naturally red hair. “We came out of last year as different people, and we also want to look like different people,” says author Jacky Colliss Harvey, whose 2015 book, Red: a redhead story, tells about our cultural representation of these genetically rare heroines. “In the 19th century paintings, there was this image of the bohemian woman, always with a shade of wild red hair,” says Colliss Harvey. “She was who everyone wanted to be if they were to declare their own individuality, independence and selfhood.”
And it takes strength of character to voluntarily engage in this kind of dual-process dye job. “Red toned hair colors require very high maintenance,” admits Perry, noting that the color requires salon visits every six to eight weeks, and in-home shine or color conditioners, such as Davines Alchemical Conditioner Where Evo Fabuloso Color Intensifying Conditioner, Between. Even Jovovich underwent weekly touch-ups to keep Stegerhoek’s basic blonde design and flamboyant. “She really went all the way, and that’s why she succeeded,” he says. But there is also room in the revolution led by the Reds for phobic of engagement. “We’re at a point where you can try something for the weekend,” Brownsell said of semi-permanent colors, such as Bleach London’s Awkward Peach golden pastel, which fades in one to five washes. . “It’s not going to damage your hair and you can always put it back. “