Givaudan explores multiple ways of making eco-responsible fragrances

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With Naturality, Givaudan is opening a new chapter in olfactory creation by adopting more eco-responsible processes. This approach is part of the company’s raison d’être: To create with Love for Nature. Everything is based on the creation of fragrances that deliver on our green commitments: a 20% reduction in emissions linked to ingredients by 2030 and a positive carbon footprint by 2050,” Explain Xavier Renard, Global Head of Fine Fragrances at Givaudan. “The classics of tomorrow will still bring pleasure and well-being, but they will also meet the urgent imperatives of protecting our planet.”.

Protecting the environment is therefore at the heart of the perfume profession.In recent years, consumers have become aware of environmental issues and have brought them to the same level as the holistic approach,“said Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Marketing Director of Fine Fragrance.

To meet this expectation, Givaudan mobilized most of the company’s teams to reduce the environmental impact of its fragrances with two main priorities: renewing the perfumer’s palette with renewable ingredients and guiding perfumers towards a greener creative approach.

A perfumer’s palette full of renewable ingredients

Givaudan emphasizes upcycling by optimizing each resource to create innovative green ingredients. The composing company succeeded in obtaining a natural peach essence derived from fruit juice production residues in the United States. This is a real technical feat, since they create natural fruit extracts that did not exist until now with a very reduced environmental impact.

The same approach was taken for green chemistry and synthetic ingredients. Thanks to Five Carbon Path Program, Givaudan optimizes the synthesis of perfume molecules with two main targets, renewability and biodegradability, by relying on an energy-efficient synthesis process and generating as little waste as possible, as evidenced by the brand new exclusive captive molecule Ebelia , a fruity note similar to blackcurrant.

Biotechnology also makes it possible to produce highly odorous molecules with a small quantity of renewable materials thanks to transformation processes with low carbon impact. For example, Ambrofix is ​​obtained by enzymatic reaction with cane sugar. Formerly derived from a natural material, clary sage, this captive molecule is now based on a renewable resource – a real ecological performance, since it is highly appreciated by perfumers.

All these new ingredients can only help perfumers to formulate differently!

Towards a more responsible olfactory creation

To gradually abandon petrochemicals, Givaudan is exploring all available alternatives create a range of 100% renewable ingredients by 2030. It is a new olfactory language that perfumers need to learn. It involves constraints that open creative doors. Just as the disappearance of nitrated musks led to the emergence of sweet notes, these green requirements allow a new perfumery to flourish.

This palette of renewable ingredients brings a lot of fluidity, harmony and textures, a dimension that is very attractive to the public. Beyond an exercise in style, this new approach offers perfumers a real playground for working on complex and faceted fragrances that let emotions speak.

Indeed, to reduce the carbon footprint of perfumes, redesigning the perfumer’s palette is only the first step: the formulation must also be rethought. To this end, Givaudan innovates by reducing the concentration in the formulas to 3% or 5%, by reducing the volume of oil and the use of ingredients throughout the world. Indeed, the new renewable ingredients with a low carbon footprint but with a strong olfactory power make it possible to create equally efficient trails despite their low concentration.

With the “High-Low” concept (high performance, low carbon impact), Givaudan offers both powerful and green scents. In addition, this choice offers perfumers several creative advantages. The low concentrations make it possible to add materials strongly limited by the IFRA to the formulas, while respecting the regulatory limits in force. The combination of these notes with new ingredients also gives a very modern dimension to the perfumes. Finally, the low concentrations facilitate the use of expensive natural materials to create more qualitative and sophisticated perfumes.

In short, paradoxically, this innovative approach reconnects with more classic perfumery and partly frees aesthetic research from regulatory constraints. While the green and creative benefits of the High Low concept are not yet visible on the market, for Givaudan, this technique represents one of the main avenues for the perfumery of tomorrow.


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