Clariant focuses its beauty R&D on stress management in the post-COVID world

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The Swiss company was present at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia show in Bangkok, Thailand, to showcase three ingredients that all relate to the concept of alleviating how stress affects skin or hair.

“That’s what drives all of our developments right now. Stress management is really the engine of our R&D”,said Alexandre Lapeyre, Global Head of Marketing and Business Development for Actives and Natural Origins.

This approach to beauty took root over the past few years as we collectively faced the protracted COVID-19 pandemic.

“It’s something we’re seeing more and more. Stress is something that’s always been there and now we’re talking about it openly and trying to deal with it – it’s something that didn’t happen before. also helps us deliver products that focus on stress,”said Vipul Bhatt, Sales and Applications Manager, Home and Personal Care, Industrial and Consumer Specialty, APAC.

One of Clariant’s star ingredients is Prunizen, an active ingredient derived from a plant with adaptogenic properties and used in Asian medicine.

This ingredient tackles hair loss induced by psycho-emotional stress and stimulates hair growth. It works by inhibiting cortisol production while increasing oxytocin levels.

“Most of the time when you look at the market you will see hair loss products that focus on hormonal imbalance, especially on men, but here we are targeting another cause of hair loss. It is the first product on the market that has this positioning,” said Lapeyre.

To mitigate accelerated damage caused by external stressors such as UV exposure, the company developed Galactinol Advanced after studying so-called “resurrection plants”, which can survive harsh conditions for years and be revived with a few drops of water.

“We were very interested in these plants and trying to understand how they are able to survive for so long without water. And we found that they could do that because they synthesize sugar to protect themselves from that harsh environment,” said Lapeyre.

However, because the plant contains very low amounts of sugar, the company synthesized this sugar and found that it could improve skin barrier function and hydration. “We basically see complete resilience of the skin,”he added.

Finally, one of the company’s latest innovations is Rootness Awake, an extract from the roots of sweet potato plants that contains the compound dicaffeoylquinate esters (DCQE).

The company claims to be able to improve dark circles and puffiness in as little as seven days.

“In seven days, we see a clear benefit, it’s very fast. The market in general, you can expect to see results in two weeks or a month. But we know consumers expect faster and faster results – they want almost instant results,” said Lapeyre.

This active ingredient is made through plant milking, a process that allows the extraction of cosmetic ingredients from the roots of plants in aeroponics.

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